Friday, April 29, 2011

Chantilly Lace

Reading this in-depth description of Kate Middleton's wedding dress from the official royal wedding website was almost as satisfying as watching the actual ceremony, bleary-eyed, at 5AM. It's basically erotica for people who love clothes...

Miss Catherine Middleton's Wedding Dress has been designed by Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen.
Miss Middleton chose British brand Alexander McQueen for the beauty of its craftsmanship and its respect for traditional workmanship and the technical construction of clothing. Miss Middleton wished for her dress to combine tradition and modernity with the artistic vision that characterises Alexander McQueen's work. Miss Middleton worked closely with Sarah Burton in formulating the design of her dress.
The dress epitomises timeless British craftsmanship by drawing together talented and skilled workmanship from across the United Kingdom. The dress design pays tribute to the Arts and Crafts tradition, which advocated truth to materials and traditional craftsmanship using simple forms and often Romantic styles of decoration. Ms Burton's design draws on this heritage, additionally giving the cut and the intricate embellishment a distinctive, contemporary and feminine character.
The Design
The lace appliqué for the bodice and skirt was hand-made by the Royal School of Needlework, based at Hampton Court Palace. The lace design was hand-engineered (appliquéd) using the Carrickmacross lace-making technique, which originated in Ireland in the 1820s. Individual flowers have been hand-cut from lace and hand-engineered onto ivory silk tulle to create a unique and organic design, which incorporates the rose, thistle, daffodil and shamrock.
Hand-cut English lace and French Chantilly lace has been used throughout the bodice and skirt, and has been used for the underskirt trim. With laces coming from different sources, much care was taken to ensure that each flower was the same colour. The whole process was overseen and put together by hand by Ms Burton and her team.
The dress is made with ivory and white satin gazar. The skirt echoes an opening flower, with white satin gazar arches and pleats. The train measures two metres 70 centimetres. The ivory satin bodice, which is narrowed at the waist and padded at the hips, draws on the Victorian tradition of corsetry and is a hallmark of Alexander McQueen's designs. The back is finished with 58 gazar and organza covered buttons fastened by Rouleau loops. The underskirt is made of silk tulle trimmed with Cluny lace.
The Fabrics
French Chantilly lace was combined with English Cluny lace to be hand-worked in the Irish Carrickmacross needlework tradition.
All other fabrics used in the creation of the dress were sourced from and supplied by British companies. The choice of fabrics followed extensive research by Sarah Burton and her team.
The Royal School of Needlework
The Royal School of Needlework (RSN), based at Hampton Court Palace, assisted the Alexander McQueen team in accurately cutting out the delicate motifs from the lace fabrics and positioning the lace motifs with precision into the new design. The lace motifs were pinned, 'framed up' and applied with stab stitching every two to three millimetres around each lace motif. The workers washed their hands every thirty minutes to keep the lace and threads pristine, and the needles were renewed every three hours, to keep them sharp and clean.
The RSN workers included existing staff, former staff, tutors, graduates and students, with the youngest aged 19.
The RSN's work was used primarily for the train and skirt of the Bride's dress, the bodice and sleeves, the Bride's shoes and the Bride's veil.
Veil and Jewellery
The veil is made of layers of soft, ivory silk tulle with a trim of hand-embroidered flowers, which was embroidered by the Royal School of Needlework. The veil is held in place by a Cartier 'halo' tiara, lent to Miss Middleton by The Queen. The 'halo' tiara was made by Cartier in 1936 and was purchased by The Duke of York (later King George VI) for his Duchess (later Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother) three weeks before he succeeded his brother as King. The tiara was presented to Princess Elizabeth (now The Queen) by her mother on the occasion of her 18th birthday.
The Bride's earrings, by Robinson Pelham, are diamond-set stylised oak leaves with a pear shaped diamond set drop and a pavé set diamond acorn suspended in the centre. Inspiration for the design comes from the Middleton family's new coat of arms, which includes acorns and oak leaves. The earrings were made to echo the tiara. The earrings were a personal gift to the Bride from her parents for her Wedding Day.
Robinson Pelham have also designed and made a pair of diamond earrings for Miss Philippa Middleton. These earrings are more floral in nature to compliment the headpiece worn by Miss Philippa Middleton during the Service.
A tourmaline and diamond pendant and matching earrings have been designed and made for Mrs. Carole Middleton. Two gold stick pins, one with a single gold acorn at the head and the other with an oak leaf, are also worn respectively by the Father of the Bride, Mr. Michael Middleton, and the Bride's brother, Mr. James Middleton.
Wedding Shoes
The wedding shoes have made hand-made by the team at Alexander McQueen and are made of ivory duchesse satin with lace hand-embroidered by the Royal School of Needlework.

Thursday, April 28, 2011

Carrie Fisher Quotes

"I was street smart, but unfortunately the street was Rodeo Drive." 
"Instant gratification takes too long." 
"Resentment is like drinking poison and waiting for the other person to die." 
"If my life wasn't funny it would just be true, and that is unacceptable."
"Sometimes you can only find heaven by slowly backing away from hell."
"You know how I always seem to be struggling, even when the situation doesn't call for it?"
"Life is a cruel, horrible joke and I am the punch line."
"You know how they say that religion is the opiate of the masses? Well I took masses of opiates religiously." 
"Celebrity is just obscurity biding its time."
ps. Postcards from the Edge is on watch instantly.

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Nothin' to do and nowhere to go-oh

Thai Times Square poster, 1980

Girls, Girls, Girls

Hannah & co. look totally adorable in this new video from The Loved One. Now off to find some corn dogs...


The Loved One Slumber Party! from The Loved One on Vimeo.

Cleopatra Jones

I saw traces of a few of my favorite 70's film heroines in the amazing new Gucci collection but the influence of Tamara Dobson's wardrobe in Cleopatra Jones and the Casino of Gold was particularly strong. The late, great Giorgio di Sant' Angelo costumed both of the Cleopatra Jones films. I'll get proper stills up on this site at some point but at the moment my dvd player is broken and I can't dredge up the motivation to go to the Apple store. But you get the idea...

01

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Monday, April 25, 2011

Follow Us

We are on twitter! Follow us. The painting is by Gretchen Ryan, she is so incredible! 

Sunday, April 24, 2011

House of 1,000 Cherubs


As it turns out, Jayne Mansfield's bedroom was only the tip of the heart-shaped iceberg. That bathroom!

Saturday, April 23, 2011

Baby Jayne

Holy shit Jayne Mansfield's bedroom totally ruled! It's like a cross between Barbie's dream house and a Vegas hotel room that you can rent by the hour—but kitschier! She has cherubs painted above her bed for Christ's sake. Cherubs! I am particularly enamored with the mirrored headboard and pink wall-to-wall carpeting. The dual princess phones are also intriguing, perhaps she has one for herself and another for that sassy little dog? And lest we forget the heart-shaped fireplace, no big deal....


From Stirred, Straight up, with a Twist, such a good blog! 

Thursday, April 21, 2011

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Identity

Last week Avril Lavigne appeared on the misguided "Women in Rock" episode of Oprah in a $6,000 studded Burberry motorcycle jacket. With green hair. You know what would be really punk rock Avril? Writing your own songs and fashioning a minidress out of a body bag like Poly Styrene from X-Ray Spex. 


Monday, April 18, 2011

Flower Power

This photo of the Pointer Sisters is soooooo major. It was on the cover of one of their records and it also makes an appearance in the insanely good 70's Style and Design book that came out last year. 

Sunday, April 17, 2011

FAUX/real

I've been admiring the FAUX/real pieces at Maryam Nassir Zadeh for some time now but after seeing the cat necklaces from their new collection my little crush turned into a full-fledged obsession! Check out more of their work here.   

Thursday, April 14, 2011

That's just how I roll

Claudia Schiffer in Chanel, obvs.

It's a man's world


Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture, 1978. This post was inspired by this amazing tumblr. 

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Fer Sure, Like TOTALLY


I've been watching a lot of L.A. movies while gearing up for a Southern California adventure and Valley Girl is obviously a fave. It's like totally tripendicular, you know?

Monday, April 11, 2011

More Images

Images

Why I love Images (and you should too):
1. Robert Altman directed it.
2. Susannah York wrote the screenplay and stars in the film.
3. Susannah York plays a children's book author who is writing a book about unicorns. 
4. Susannah York actually wrote a book about unicorns in real life.
5. It's one of those movies where you can't tell if the protagonist is haunted or schizophrenic. 
6. The interiors are incredible.
7. It's very similar to 3 Women and Don't Look Now.
8. The John Williams score is freaky, jarring, and unforgettable. 
9. Gorgeous landscapes.
10. Heavily inspired by Persona
11. The color palette so distinctive and perfect.  
12. There are a couple of really sick glass mobiles that are visible throughout the film.  
14. Just look at the wallpaper in her bedroom!
15.  Susannah York's semi-ackward late seventies bourgeois bohemian wardrobe really hits the spot.  
16. The ending is perfect.